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Betawi culture is the result of the long intermingling of ethnic groups brought to work in the Dutch colonial capital of Batavia — now Jakarta — from the 17th century onward. Fearing a Javanese uprising, the Dutch favored ethnic groups from Bali, Ambon and the Moluccas, and also from other parts of South and Southeast Asia — who would move easily into jobs in the colonial administration and army.

After Indonesia achieved independence in 1949, the Betawi, as living reminders of the colonial past, were socially marginalized. For this reason, up until the 1970s, many Betawi people took great efforts to conceal their ethnic identity. More recently, the Jakarta city government has paid special attention to protecting and promoting Betawi culture. The word Betawi itself has a colonial legacy, being derived from Batavia.

Gambang Kromong
This lively music is played by a gamelan ensemble. The vocals are a mix of Chinese and Indonesian elements, but the dialect used is pure Betawi, and the lyrics are humorous. Cokek dancers usually perform to gambang kromong music.
The instruments used in gambang kromong are:
1. Gambang, a wooden xylophone.
2. Teh Yan, a small-sized stringed instrument played with a bow.
3. Kong An Yan, a medium-sized stringed instrument played with a bow.
4. Shu Kong, a large-sized stringed instrument played with a bow.
5. Kemong, a gamelan gong.
6. Kromong, a set of small gongs.
7. Krecek, bronze blades with a wooden base that create a “crek-crek” sound.
8. Kendang, a drum with two surfaces.

Where to go:
Rumah Kawin: Jl. Selapajang Jaya, Kampung Melayu, Tangerang, Banten.
Next to a cemetery and a school.

Vihara Nimmala: Jl. Asrama Haji Polisi, Pasar Baru No. 1, Tangerang.
Tel. 021 552 2945


Kerak Telor
This rice and egg omelette is one of the Betawi foods developed during the Dutch colonial era. Glutinous rice is dry-fried in a hot pan and egg is added to hold it together. The result is an omelette with a chewy, crunchy texture.

The surest way to find kerak telor is at Betawi festivals and at the Jakarta Fair. Kerak telor is also available year-round at the Setu Babakan cultural village.

Where to go:
Setu Babakan:
If you have never been there, it’s easier to take a cab and tell the driver to go to Lenteng Agung, Jagakarsa, South Jakarta.
If you take a bus, go to Pasar Minggu bus station and look for a Kopaja No. 616 bus, destination Blok M to Cimpedak. Ask the driver’s assistant to drop you off at Setu Babakan.
It’s about a 30-minute ride from the bus station to Setu Babakan.

Ondel-ondel
These effigies are made in pairs. The male has a red or black face and a thick mustache made from palm fiber or goat skin; the female has a white face. Ondel-ondel are designed to be carried along in parades from the inside and are constructed around a bamboo frame.

Where to go:
Jakarta Fair at Kemayoran,
Taman Mini Indonesia Indah

Tari Cokek
The cokek is danced at Betawi wedding parties. The term cokek originally referred to a female vocalist in a Gambang Kromong group. But, over time, the singers became dancers. Cokek dancers traditionally wear brightly colored shawls. They invite audience members to dance with them by giving them their shawls. It is customary for audience members to tip the dancers at the end of each performance.

Where to go:
Rumah Kawin, Jl. Selapajang Jaya, Kampung Melayu, Tangerang, Banten.

Wayang Betawi
Most people are more familiar with wayang kulit, or Javanese leather shadow puppets, then with wayang Betawi. The puppets are almost the same, but the rods of the Betawi puppets are made from rattan, not wood. The story is narrated in Betawi, but the music is usually Sundanese.

Where to go:
Wayang Museum: Jl. Pintu Besar Utara Nomor 27, West Jakarta.
Tel.: 021 692 9560
Taman Mini Indonesia Indah

Lenong Theater
This type of folk theater is among the most popular Betawi art forms. There are two kinds of lenong: lenong dedes and lenong preman. The stories of lenong dedes are about royalty and are told in polite language. Lenong preman stories are about ordinary people and told in everyday language. They are therefore more popular because the audience can easily relate to them. Lenong stories usually have a moral. Bokir, Mandra and Srimulat are among the most popular lenong troupes in Indonesia.

Where to go:
You can see lenong practice for children every Wednesday and Sunday afternoon at Setu Babakan. Or go to Anjungan DKI Jakarta at Taman Mini Indonesia Indah.